Ailsa Bay (First Release) Whisky Review

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A big thank you to Barry from the Whiskyphiles who gave us a sample of this spirit!

As you may already know, this is the first whisky released from the Ailsa Bay distillery. But what is Aisla Bay distillery?

It started in 2007 within the site of the Girvan grain distillery. So it’s kind of confusing because it’s pretty much a part of Girvan.  It’s owned by William Grant & Sons who also own Glenfiddich, Balvenie, and Kininvie, and was created to produce malt whisky for their blends and presumably some whisky for the single malt peoples. Another interesting tidbit, Aisla Bay is the second malt distillery to be on that site. The first was the Ladyburn distillery which had a short life from 1966 to 1976.

While it may seem strange to have one distillery within/on-site of another this has happened before. As Malt-Review points out “Inverleven at Dumbarton between 1959-1991 and Ben Wyvis at Invergordon between 1965-1977.” Ben Nevis also had a grain distillery on site but they didn’t really market the spirit with a different name and in fact they ran some experiments of blending at birth to create their unique single blended whiskies. Miyagikyo Distillery in Japan also have both coffey and pot stills which could be considered separate distilleries by the Ailsa Bay definition. So yeah it happens.

The name Ailsa Bay comes from Ailsa Craig, an island in the Firth of Clyde that can be seen from the distillery. Ailsa Craig is famous for being a major quarry for a special type of granite that is used to make curling stones. And to make things a bit more interesting, Grants has used that granite to make the stoppers for this particular bottling. Fancy huh?

While this particular expression of Ailsa Bay whisky is heavily peated, the distillery was designed to produce 3 styles: unpeated light, unpeated rich, and peated. They decided to release the peated one first which is an interesting move, since peaty whisky is always a divisive topic for new drinkers. However, it does showcase that they now have access to heavily peated whiskies as none of their other malt distilleries produce heavily peated spirit.

All in all it’s exciting times for whisky fans. A whisky debut from a highly reputable whisky company, let’s have a taste!

 

Distillery: Ailsa Bay Distillery (within Girvan grain distillery)

Age: NAS

Cask: From Whisky For Everyone “Refill American oak, first fill bourbon, new oak and Baby Bourbon casks previously used by William Grant’s Hudson distillery in New York.”

ABV: 48.9%

PPM Liquid: From Malt-Review 21ppm

Price: £53.95 from the Whisky Exchange

 

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The Glover 14 Year Old

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In terms of whisky backstory “The Glover” is like a Marvel superhero. Where to begin? I suppose we should begin with the legend himself Thomas Blake Glover aka the Scottish Samurai. Not really sure who coined that name for him but it is both pretty awesome and crass. Hollywood will probably jump on this story soon.

Mr. Glover was born in Aberdeenshire to an English coastguard and a Scottish mother in 1838. So I guess he’s only half Scottish? He’s credited with playing a vital role in the industrialization of Japan. He brought the first railway locomotive to Japan, which was name the Iron Duke (again with the awesome monikers). He took part in commissioning one of the first Japanese warships, the Ryujo Maru, which was built in Aberdeen. And he developed Japan’s first coal mine. Pretty impressive, especially since this was during a time when foreigners were not looked well upon in Japan.

So what better way to pay homage to such a man than to create a whisky that is the marriage of Scottish and Japanese whiskies? So that’s what Adelphi has done! They’ve made two blended malt whiskies which have, confusingly, both been named “The Glover”. The more expensive of the two is a 22 year old which is a vatting of just 3 casks from Hanyu, Longmorn, and Glen Garioch and resulted in 390 bottles. Clocking in at just over £1000 this expression was just a bit out of our price range. No doubt the high cost is mainly due to the inclusion of the highly sought after Hanyu whisky.

The Glover 14 year old, however, was priced at a much more affordable £100. With only 1500 bottles produced it’s quite a rare treat. We were able to acquire a sample from the good folks at Whisky Auctioneer. The exact composition of the 14 year old was not released, but it contains both Scottish and Japanese whiskies.

The 14 and 22 year old were released at the same time and lauded as the first Scottish-Japanese whisky ever launched. However, this is not quite true. Nikka uses the whisky from Ben Nevis Distillery (Nikka owned) in many of their blends and blended malts, especially the Nikka Black 8 year old. They don’t really advertise this however so it never got the special attention it deserved. Regardless, the Glover is a unique and rare whisky and has deservedly received quite a bit of attention in the whisky industry.

Bottler: Adelphi

Type: Blended Malt (Scotch and Japanese malts)

Age: 14 Years Old

Cask: Unknown

ABV: 44.3%

Price: £95.00 at the Master of Malt

 

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Cadenhead Bunnahabhain 39 Year Old

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What a big surprise from Scotland’s oldest independent bottler! A 39 year old Islay whisky aged in sherry casks and bottled at cask strength with a retail of less than 200 quid! Impressive. It’s not surprising that these babies were swept up quickly but we were lucky enough to try it at a Water of Life Society tasting run by one of the committee members (Zsuzsa!). Known as the XL tasting this was a special tasting to celebrate her birthday.

This particular release comes from the vatting of 3 sherry butts. Presumably these are from full maturations as opposed to finishes. The darkness of the liquid would perhaps attest to that. It truly has a lovely reddish dark hue to it. Not much more information is available on this. Seeing as how Bunnahabhain are selling a 16 year old sherry matured whisky at Feis Isle 2016 for £250, this seems quite the bargain.

 

Distillery: Bunnahabhain

Age: 39 Years Old

Cask: Three Sherry Butts

Distilled: 1976

Bottled: 2016

Number of Bottles: 648

ABV: 49.4%

Price: £195 from Cadenheads

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The Laddie Eight

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We tried the new Bruichladdich Laddie 8 at a Bruichladdich tweet tasting on April 14, 2016. Check out @Bruichladdich #WhiskyEx on twitter to see some of the other participants’ notes. This particular expression is travel retail only, so keep an eye out for it at the airport duty free shops. The ‘Laddie’ range of whiskies was started to emphasize that age does not define the quality of a whisky. These expressions show case “young” whiskies that exhibit great flavour and character. Hence the punny name. As per usual for Bruichladdich the whisky is not chill-filtered and no caramel colouring is used, which means this is au naturale whisky. It’s also bottled at a nice 50% which is good because younger whiskies typically have a high ABV which means they are usually diluted more to make that 40-43% standard ABV. So you get more whisky for your mula.

For more information check out their website.

Distillery: Bruichladdich

Age: 8 Years Old

Cask: American and European Oak Casks

ABV: 50%

Price: ~£63 as seen on the Bruichladdich site

 

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Port Charlotte 2007 CC:01

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We tried the new Port Charlotte 2007 CC:01 at a Bruichladdich tweet tasting on April 14, 2016. Check out @Bruichladdich #WhiskyEx on twitter to see some of the other participants’ notes. This particular expression is travel retail only, so keep an eye out for it at the airport duty free shops (also available at the distillery).

Port Charlotte is a range of expressions from Bruichladdich that is characterised by heavily peated malt. The range is a reference to the whisky that was produced at the now closed Loch Indaal distillery (also known as Port Charlotte distillery, closed 1929). Mark Reynier (Bruichladdich CEO) wanted to reopen the Port Charlotte distillery but well things happened and that wasn’t one of them. So the alternative? Make Port Charlotte at Bruichladdich.

So what’s with the unusual naming of this particular expression? Well the 2007 refers to the year of distillation, CC presumably refers to Cognac Casks, and I suspect “01” refers to the this being the first in a line of expressions from Cognac casks. So it’s a pretty cool code that defines a lot of the provenance of this whisky. Seeing as how Bruichladdich have been pretty modern with their transparency, craft/origin ethos, and marketting, this naming fits right in. Being a systematic being myself, I like it.

For more info see the article about this expression at the Bruichladdich site.

 

Distillery: Bruichladdich

Age: 8 years old

Cask: French Oak (insinuated to be ex-Cognac casks)

ABV: 57.8%

Price: ~£63 as seen on the Bruichladdich site

 

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Macallan 12 Year Old Sherry Oak (UK VS USA Version)

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This is an interesting one which seems to be at the heart of the controversy over the newish 1824 NAS whisky range. For many years the Macallan 12 year old has been a much cherished core expression from Macallan. It was the flagship whisky which introduced many to the joys of Macallan and to Scotch whisky in general. In 2012/2013 the 1824 series of no age statement Macallan’s was released starting with the Gold and prices for the Macallan 12 started going up. In the UK the 12 was thought to be discontinued but actually they have just reduced the amount available so that it’s harder to find and usually priced over 50 quid. However, the US seems to still have a steady supply of the 12 at very reasonable prices.

We tried the UK version of the Macallan 12 at a WOLS tasting and the USA version from a bottle I bought in the US and I was surprised to find that they were quite different. The first difference is the ABV. The US version comes in at 43% and the UK version is at 40%. With US bottlings having a volume of 750ml compared to the UK 700ml and the higher ABV you are getting a good deal more undiluted whisky in the US version. Couple that with the much more affordable US price tag and the whole deal seems quite unfair for the British. I really don’t understand why the ABV’s are different for the two markets but this is an important detail to look out for. Many people assume that an expression will have the same  ABV wherever they buy it but this could not be further from the truth. One retail trick I have seen is that some travel retail exclusive whiskies will be more diluted than their non-duty free counterparts.

The second difference I found between the two versions is that the US version seemed to be more flavourful. It had richer aromas and a stronger character. This could have something to do with the ABV but it’s clear that they are from different batches and perhaps they are blended slightly differently for the two markets. Anyway, we should probably get on to the tasting notes now. We included tasting notes for bother versions.

Distillery: Macallan Distillery

Age: 12 Years Old

Cask: Sherry Casks

ABV: 40% in Europe or 43% in the USA

Price: £62.86 at the Master of Malt or $49.99 at K&L Wines

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Macallan 18 Year Old Sherry Oak

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Lo and behold! The Macallan 18. Something of a quintessential luxury whisky that has had a high profile since… ok well I don’t really know since when. It’s been around  awhile. It seems like the core range sherry oak Macallan 12 and 18 have been fixtures in the whisky industry long enough to influence the movies at least. Of course Macallan made an appearance in Skyfall in the memorable “shoot the whisky not the girl” scene. Obvious references to Macallan have been made in the TV show Lost with the 60 year old MacCutcheon. Note the design of the bottle. The MacCutcheon makes another appearance in the TV show Fringe. So it’s apparent that Macallan has made it’s mark and I suppose it’s likely that the 18 had a bit of influence among Hollywood types. All speculation of course.

Anyway, somewhat unfortunately the 18 has seen a recent increase in price after the introduction of the 1824 NAS range. It went from about £90 in 2012 to £180 in 2015. So from a fairly expensive whisky to an essentially non-drinkable whisky, which is a shame. I’m pretty sure the regular connoisseurs of the stuff were wealthy folks a couple years ago so I wonder if they noticed the price hike or simply kept on ordering it. We were lucky to try it at a recent WOLS tasting that was run by Matt Byerly. The tasting was completely blind and included the 12 and 18 along with the Amber and Sienna. We were all given ballots to rank the whiskies and the top two were the 18 and the Sienna. So perhaps the Sienna is the new 18? Well not quite but you’ll have to judge for yourself. AliceInWhiskyland and I both prefered the 18.

Distillery: Macallan Distillery

Age: 18 Years Old

Cask: Sherry Cask

ABV: 43%

Price: £185.00 at Berry Bros and Rudd

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Macallan Sienna

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The Macallan Sienna is part of the NAS whisky range from Macallan known as the 1824 series. The series was first released in Europe to take the place of Macallan’s well known and loved age statement whiskies such as the 12 and 18 year old sherry cask. While the 12 and 18 are still being produced their availability in Europe has diminished and their prices dramatically increased. The Sienna is the third to lowest priced whisky in the range which consists of the core expressions Gold, Amber, Sienna, and Ruby with increasing prices in that order. Supposedly, this range was introduced due to their inability to keep up with demands for their age statement whiskies given their current stocks.

If you want to know a little bit more about the range see the post about the Macallan Amber.

I tried this expression at a Water of life Society tasting run by Matt Byerly in which we compared 2 expressions from the 1824 series and 2 aged expression. We also tried a Gordon and MacPhail Speymalt 9 year old for comparison. The tasting was blind and we were handed pieces of paper to rank the whiskies. And the results? Well it seemed like the Sienna and the Macallan 18 were tied for first. So I suppose that says something about this expression. I preferred the 18 but the Sienna was number 2.

Distillery: Macallan Distillery

Age: No Age Statement

Cask: Sherry Casks

ABV: 43%

Price: £62.87 at the Master of Malt
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Macallan Amber

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The Macallan Amber is part of the NAS whisky range from Macallan known as the 1824 series. The series was first released in Europe to take the place of Macallan’s well known and loved age statement whiskies such as the 12 and 18 year old sherry cask. While the 12 and 18 are still being produced their availability in Europe has diminished and their prices dramatically increased. The Amber is the second to lowest priced whisky in the range which consists of the core expressions Gold, Amber, Sienna, and Ruby with increasing prices in that order. Supposedly, this range was introduced due to their inability to keep up with demands for their age statement whiskies given their current stocks.

The concept of the range is somewhat confusing. The idea is that age should not be an indicator of quality (which is a valid point) but then that colour is now a good indicator? Since the range is comprised of 100% sherry casks the pitch is that the darker the colour the more “mature” the whisky. They do not use caramel colouring to achieve this. But the whole concept is pretty odd. Usually master blenders bring together casks to create the flavour profile of a particular expression. So now they have to match the flavour and the colour? It just doesn’t feel right. I am interested to see how this will play out in the long term, many batches from now. However, given that most whisky drinkers do not notice differences between batches, I suppose this won’t really cause issues.

 

Distillery: Macallan Distillery

Age: No Age Statement

Cask: Sherry Casks

ABV: 40%

Price: £44.99 at Master of Malt

 

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SMWS 35.139 (Glen Moray) Punchy Spice Explosion

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It seems the Scotch Malt Whisky Society has a collection of Glen Moray’s in unusual casks. At least this is judging from their recent releases of Glen Moray. I’m not sure if this was of their own design or if they were already filled in these casks before they purchased them. Seeing as how Glen Moray seem to be on the more experimental side of distilling, I would not be surprised if they had put together an assortment of odd casks and sold some to SMWS. Either way I appreciate it! I only wonder if Glen Moray will be releasing similarly interesting expressions in the future.

Here we have a 20 year old Glen Moray matured in a first fill toasted hogshead. This is notable for at least 2 reasons. First is that a first fill cask typically has a shorter maturation period because they impart more flavours faster. So the whisky is usually deemed ready at a younger age. Thus older first fill cask bottlings are somewhat rare. Second is that the cask was toasted a second time. Usually the casks will be toasted before being used to age bourbon. The Scottish distilleries will usually put their spirit directly into the ex-bourbon casks without too much fuddling around with the cask except for maybe resizing it into a hogshead (bigger than a barrel). However, in this instance it appears that they have toasted it again right before putting in the Scottish spirit. How does this affect maturation? Well I guess you just have to read the tasting notes to find out.

Distillery: Glen Moray

Age: 20 Years Old

Cask: 1st Fill Hogshead Toasted Oak

ABV: 57.9%

Price: £76.60 for members, £153.20 for non-members from SMWS
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